Mr. Xuong runs a cơm tấm stall along Hoàng Sa.

He named the stall after his wife.
It is where he built his work.

He did not start as a cook.
He chose it and stayed with it.

Each day begins before the grill is lit.
By service, the fire is steady and the line forms.

“I just focus on doing this well every day.

”Rice is portioned first.
Pork comes off the grill and is cut to order.